If your door won't latch without lifting the knob up or pushing it down, you don’t need a contractor for your repair. You just need one, maybe two screws and a drill.
If you have to push the door DOWN to get it to latch:
Remove the center screw from the bottom hinge on the jamb side and replace it with a 3-inch screw. Tighten it until it seats against the hinge, then tighten it just a little more until the door latches on its own.
If you have to lift the door UP to get it to latch, which is much more common:
Remove the center screw from the top hinge on the jamb side and replace it with a 3-inch screw. Tighten it until it seats against the hinge, then tighten it just a little more until the door closes and latches perfectly.
That's it! A contractor would typically charge around $300+ just to do exactly that.
Got another problem in your home? You know where to find me. And if your question involves electrical or plumbing, I’ve got licensed professionals in my corner ready to help with those too.
Here’s something most homeowners don’t know — in many areas, including parts of New Mexico, you can legally do your own electrical and plumbing work in your own home. A short exam, your own permit, and your own inspection are often all it takes. I can point you in the right direction on that too.
One call connects you to everything your home needs. Together, we can Do-It-Yourself.
Painting looks simple until you do it wrong — and most people don't find out until the paint dries. Here's what over thirty years in the trades taught me that nobody puts on the label.
When you get a old paint matched always ask the clerk to hold back about 10% of the tint. It's easier to add color than take it out — and starting slightly lighter gives you room to dial it in. Always have them mix a sample jar first before committing to a full can.
Not all paints show their true color until they've been dry for 30 to 45 minutes. Don't judge your match under a hair dryer in the store. Give it time. In my experience Behr paint tends to show its true color faster and more accurately than most.
Primer is not a sales gimmick — but it's also not always necessary. New materials, stains, mold, and discoloration need primer. Fresh paint over existing paint generally does not. And primer can be used as paint but paint cannot be used as primer — don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
If you're covering red or dark colors— prime it with a gray primer first before going to white. It'll save you multiple coats and a lot of frustration.
Prime everything first, then caulk and Cut in with your brush before using a roller roll as tight to your brush work as you can — your roller will blend the brush lines and they'll disappear.
Choosing the right roller nap makes more difference than most people realize. The smoother your wall the shorter the nap you need — a shorter nap lays paint on flat and smooth. The more texture your wall has the longer the nap should be so it can push paint down into the valleys and cover evenly.
When you're rolling don't squeeze the paint out trying to stretch your coat. Dip more than you think you should. You might get a drip or two but you'll get an even consistent coat. Always back roll — go back over what you just applied before it sets — and you'll get a finish that looks professional every time.
Always remove outlet and switch covers before painting. It takes twenty seconds and saves you twenty minutes of careful cutting around something that was never meant to be painted around.
One call and there's a lot more where that came from.
Together, we can Do-It-Yourself.
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